A few days at 'Club Merchant'

I suppose the sensible would choose 'Club Med', but the smart should opt for Club Merchant. If you are after exotic location, stunning scenery, gourmet food, a choice of activities and great hosts- you can't go past this club. I took a few days to join Bill and Kathi Merchant at the Susitna branch- which turned out to be a great experience.

Upon arrival ( self powered- more on that later) I was given a lovely room with excellent views, fully air conditioned, and with tea and coffee making facilities right by the bed! Main meals were served at a communal facility- an environmentally friendly Eco lodge - [OK, a tent] nicely heated and set up with a folding table and chairs- a comfortable gathering place indeed.

After meeting at the Point Mac car park- a little over an hour out of Anchorage ( and past Sara Pallin's home town of Wasilia- alas-didn't have time to call in) we met Bill and Kathi- unloaded the bikes and followed Kathi down a snowy road- while Bill soon disappeared into the white yonder on a zippy snowmobile- hauling our extra supplies and gear. A few hours paddling later- crossing the little Su river ( frozen) and heading out to Flathorn lake ( frozen) i was starting to get my snow legs- getting used to my Titanium fat bike with 80mm rims- loaded with sleeping gear, clothing, food, and spares- not quite the ultralight style my friend Franco would choose- but in these conditions- essential. The temperature was a hovering around a comfortable -9C, just cosy enough when you paddle thru the snow and generating lots more heat then expected.

We travelled at a nice pace- speed is not a prominent feature of snow biking- and by the time we arrived at the club Bill was already sorting dinner stuff. If i didn't have huge respect for the Merchants already- spotting Bills espresso maker on the stove certainly made me convinced i am in the right place, with the right people.

After we settled into our rooms- Bill pulled out the largest steaks I've seen in a long time- and proceeded to grill them on coals while we had hot drinks and a something a little stronger...

The smell of the grilling steaks wafted thru the woods- and as we were within cooee of the Susitna 50 and 100 race trails- we were watching some of the races go past- being diverted by the invisible wall of smell-except those we labeled ' the vegetarians' who appeared immune to the smells- but only just- they too succumbed to Bill's tease- poor sods.

As darkness fell so did the snow- and we got into the communal space and chatted away- those who know me will be please to know i found my 'talking' match in Bill and Kathy- and my riding buddy Kevin from Canada-who was the quietest of the lot- initially- but a great company nonetheless. Besides being a great guy, an experienced cyclists and kayaker, Kevin also proved to be the master of bottomless bike bags- ever producing more and more treats over the next few days- which were sure appreciated by all.

We talked and ate and drank while stragglers shuffled past- in the dark some from the Su 50 and others from the Su 100- in various states of physical and mental forms- from the happy and cruising to the stunned and exhausted. The deep soft snow did not make things easy this year, and quite a few people who planned to finish hours earlier- were still out there in the dark and cold late into the evening. Sometime after 9- now quite a few hours into the dark- Bill was asked to provide evac(uation) service and help few people out- which meant he had to hitch the sled to the snow machine, and get people and gear into it. I understand that sitting in a skled towed by a machine is not one of the recommended ways to travel- unless you enjoy showering in snow, freezing, and getting constantly whacked from the bumps and moguls on the trail. This was particularly so for the Su 50 participants who were only lightly dressed ( the race in a short course) and di not have to carry minimum gear like those doing the longer Su 100. It took Bill a couple of trips and over 3 hours to haul some folks out- and by the time he got back to camp it was just going on Midnight. We all had another solidarity drink- something called sub zero i think- made in Canada and guaranteed to kill any germs- so we drank for medicinal purposes as you'll no doubt understand.

As soon as we retired the snow decided to go into turbo- and by morning I had to shake over 20 CM of fresh white stuff before emerging. The bikes were covered, everything was pretty frozen- and I discovered Bill had already drank an espresso- alone!- so much for room service.

After breakfast and hot cider we loaded the bikes for a ride to Flathorn lake and the Dismal swamp- a charming little spot about 20 Km from our base. Riding was good-if you were not in a hurry- the terrain very undulating and slippery at times- i even managed to make- according to Kathy- a very nice snow angle - at the first downhill. A snow angle gets made this way:

1. you lose control of your heavily front loaded bike;

2. you do a full endo- fly over the handle bars while the bike sinks into deep snow;

3.you sink into the deepest possible patch of snow- get completely covered, with arms wide spread... Now you made angel.

I guess as the showers were not running that morning ( maintenance called- advised be there in summer)this was the nearest i got to a quick shower- certainly refreshing- before we proceeded to ride towards the white distance- a beautiful landscape without much distinction between land and sky- the snow was still falling having got into the swing last night- and so we made our way across the lake- riding, pushing the bike in places where the snow was just too deep to ride, and stopping to chat with passer bys- mainly on snow machines.

Sometime during the ride my rear tire stopped getting along with the rim- and it appeared they decided on amicable separation- this was not good news for the management ( me) just above- as the now already wide tire became even wider with the inner tube trying to liberate itself- insuring i was soon unable to ride. We deflated the tire and reset the bead- but after about 10 meters ( and after lots of pumping- these tires are BIG) tire and inner disagreed again- so it was off the bike and attempt 2, 3, 4, 5..... We then took both wheels off, removed both tires, swapped them around so the rear was now in the front ( all this while it was snowing and nicely under zero) and it looked promising- the tire stayed on!

for about 10 meters....

I was getting ready fro a very long walk/ bike push back to camp- when Kathi suggested we strap the problematic tire to the rim,- seeing these are run at low pressure ( about 10psi) on snow- we gathered every available strap and so i proceeded to 'ride' cripple style towards the Yentna and Susitna river confluence- and managed quite well considering the resistance, and rubbing this contraption caused.

An hour later Bill appeared- having had his own 'mechanicals' with the snow machine after the night rescue- and having to ride ' cripple style' too back to get a replacement machine- and caught up with us just in time to point out a running creek in a hidden spot- where we could refill our water bottles and survey the damage to my tire. We decided that while Kathi, Kevin and myself headed further out ( just to insure i would have a very very long walk if the tire failed completely) Bill kindly rode back to camp- took a tire off his own bike, and rode all the way back to meet us at Big Su river- where for the umpteenth time that day i deflated the tire- replaced it- pumped it, and finally- RODE like normal ( well, lets just say like everyone else on the ride at least did). we started to head back up the trail- and into the fading light and soon had to turn our headlamps on- the world changed- everything started to close in with the mist and snow- and our world became little pools of lights in the white darkness. we arrived back at base just after 8 that night- and after sorting gear for the night had a fantastic dinner created by Kathy. despite the long day- this was another late night of stories and talk of adventures past and future, and a great opportunity to listen to Bill and Kathi's stories of the trails and races, and rides, and Kayak trips...with Kevin and myself providing the foreigner input about other places and adventures. a great day, and a great evening was had by all, - saved by the straps ( and Kathi, and Bill, and Kevin's endless supply of snacks)

to be continued.....

[ some pictures by Kevin Hilly]