A few days at 'Club Merchant'

I suppose the sensible would choose 'Club Med', but the smart should opt for Club Merchant. If you are after exotic location, stunning scenery, gourmet food, a choice of activities and great hosts- you can't go past this club. I took a few days to join Bill and Kathi Merchant at the Susitna branch- which turned out to be a great experience.

Upon arrival ( self powered- more on that later) I was given a lovely room with excellent views, fully air conditioned, and with tea and coffee making facilities right by the bed! Main meals were served at a communal facility- an environmentally friendly Eco lodge - [OK, a tent] nicely heated and set up with a folding table and chairs- a comfortable gathering place indeed.

After meeting at the Point Mac car park- a little over an hour out of Anchorage ( and past Sara Pallin's home town of Wasilia- alas-didn't have time to call in) we met Bill and Kathi- unloaded the bikes and followed Kathi down a snowy road- while Bill soon disappeared into the white yonder on a zippy snowmobile- hauling our extra supplies and gear. A few hours paddling later- crossing the little Su river ( frozen) and heading out to Flathorn lake ( frozen) i was starting to get my snow legs- getting used to my Titanium fat bike with 80mm rims- loaded with sleeping gear, clothing, food, and spares- not quite the ultralight style my friend Franco would choose- but in these conditions- essential. The temperature was a hovering around a comfortable -9C, just cosy enough when you paddle thru the snow and generating lots more heat then expected.

We travelled at a nice pace- speed is not a prominent feature of snow biking- and by the time we arrived at the club Bill was already sorting dinner stuff. If i didn't have huge respect for the Merchants already- spotting Bills espresso maker on the stove certainly made me convinced i am in the right place, with the right people.

After we settled into our rooms- Bill pulled out the largest steaks I've seen in a long time- and proceeded to grill them on coals while we had hot drinks and a something a little stronger...

The smell of the grilling steaks wafted thru the woods- and as we were within cooee of the Susitna 50 and 100 race trails- we were watching some of the races go past- being diverted by the invisible wall of smell-except those we labeled ' the vegetarians' who appeared immune to the smells- but only just- they too succumbed to Bill's tease- poor sods.

As darkness fell so did the snow- and we got into the communal space and chatted away- those who know me will be please to know i found my 'talking' match in Bill and Kathy- and my riding buddy Kevin from Canada-who was the quietest of the lot- initially- but a great company nonetheless. Besides being a great guy, an experienced cyclists and kayaker, Kevin also proved to be the master of bottomless bike bags- ever producing more and more treats over the next few days- which were sure appreciated by all.

We talked and ate and drank while stragglers shuffled past- in the dark some from the Su 50 and others from the Su 100- in various states of physical and mental forms- from the happy and cruising to the stunned and exhausted. The deep soft snow did not make things easy this year, and quite a few people who planned to finish hours earlier- were still out there in the dark and cold late into the evening. Sometime after 9- now quite a few hours into the dark- Bill was asked to provide evac(uation) service and help few people out- which meant he had to hitch the sled to the snow machine, and get people and gear into it. I understand that sitting in a skled towed by a machine is not one of the recommended ways to travel- unless you enjoy showering in snow, freezing, and getting constantly whacked from the bumps and moguls on the trail. This was particularly so for the Su 50 participants who were only lightly dressed ( the race in a short course) and di not have to carry minimum gear like those doing the longer Su 100. It took Bill a couple of trips and over 3 hours to haul some folks out- and by the time he got back to camp it was just going on Midnight. We all had another solidarity drink- something called sub zero i think- made in Canada and guaranteed to kill any germs- so we drank for medicinal purposes as you'll no doubt understand.

As soon as we retired the snow decided to go into turbo- and by morning I had to shake over 20 CM of fresh white stuff before emerging. The bikes were covered, everything was pretty frozen- and I discovered Bill had already drank an espresso- alone!- so much for room service.

After breakfast and hot cider we loaded the bikes for a ride to Flathorn lake and the Dismal swamp- a charming little spot about 20 Km from our base. Riding was good-if you were not in a hurry- the terrain very undulating and slippery at times- i even managed to make- according to Kathy- a very nice snow angle - at the first downhill. A snow angle gets made this way:

1. you lose control of your heavily front loaded bike;

2. you do a full endo- fly over the handle bars while the bike sinks into deep snow;

3.you sink into the deepest possible patch of snow- get completely covered, with arms wide spread... Now you made angel.

I guess as the showers were not running that morning ( maintenance called- advised be there in summer)this was the nearest i got to a quick shower- certainly refreshing- before we proceeded to ride towards the white distance- a beautiful landscape without much distinction between land and sky- the snow was still falling having got into the swing last night- and so we made our way across the lake- riding, pushing the bike in places where the snow was just too deep to ride, and stopping to chat with passer bys- mainly on snow machines.

Sometime during the ride my rear tire stopped getting along with the rim- and it appeared they decided on amicable separation- this was not good news for the management ( me) just above- as the now already wide tire became even wider with the inner tube trying to liberate itself- insuring i was soon unable to ride. We deflated the tire and reset the bead- but after about 10 meters ( and after lots of pumping- these tires are BIG) tire and inner disagreed again- so it was off the bike and attempt 2, 3, 4, 5..... We then took both wheels off, removed both tires, swapped them around so the rear was now in the front ( all this while it was snowing and nicely under zero) and it looked promising- the tire stayed on!

for about 10 meters....

I was getting ready fro a very long walk/ bike push back to camp- when Kathi suggested we strap the problematic tire to the rim,- seeing these are run at low pressure ( about 10psi) on snow- we gathered every available strap and so i proceeded to 'ride' cripple style towards the Yentna and Susitna river confluence- and managed quite well considering the resistance, and rubbing this contraption caused.

An hour later Bill appeared- having had his own 'mechanicals' with the snow machine after the night rescue- and having to ride ' cripple style' too back to get a replacement machine- and caught up with us just in time to point out a running creek in a hidden spot- where we could refill our water bottles and survey the damage to my tire. We decided that while Kathi, Kevin and myself headed further out ( just to insure i would have a very very long walk if the tire failed completely) Bill kindly rode back to camp- took a tire off his own bike, and rode all the way back to meet us at Big Su river- where for the umpteenth time that day i deflated the tire- replaced it- pumped it, and finally- RODE like normal ( well, lets just say like everyone else on the ride at least did). we started to head back up the trail- and into the fading light and soon had to turn our headlamps on- the world changed- everything started to close in with the mist and snow- and our world became little pools of lights in the white darkness. we arrived back at base just after 8 that night- and after sorting gear for the night had a fantastic dinner created by Kathy. despite the long day- this was another late night of stories and talk of adventures past and future, and a great opportunity to listen to Bill and Kathi's stories of the trails and races, and rides, and Kayak trips...with Kevin and myself providing the foreigner input about other places and adventures. a great day, and a great evening was had by all, - saved by the straps ( and Kathi, and Bill, and Kevin's endless supply of snacks)

to be continued.....

[ some pictures by Kevin Hilly]

getting into a fat diet

Yesterday afternoon went to Billy Kootch's place to set up the bike and say hi to the family. While we were getting all the bits together and tweaking the equipment- Billy's 4 year old daughter took charge of catering and with a little help from mom produced some amazing marshmallow cup cakes- a lovely treat while we were fiddling with wheels, racks, bags, pogies [hand warmer handlebar oversizes 'gloves']

It was a perfect afternoon cold and sunny- and good snow- to hit the snow and go out for a 'little spin'- and back to adjust seats, handle bars- chains and gearing- but soon enough we loaded the bikes on the truck ( AKA Tony's car) and headed to a pre-race meeting- this was a meeting / briefing for the Susitna 50 and 100 mile races running on the weekend- all participants must bring their gear for check- the is a compulsory min weight to carry- mainly survival gear. everyone got issued with race bibs and shirts- and- as the eruption of Mt redoubt- our rumblings local volcano- is anticipated shortly- everyone got issued with dust masks! not quite your standard race kit.

The race organisers then ran a very funny- but also informative race session- and we then headed to another pub to eat and continue talking to some folks who are racing- it's not a very big place and soon enough i was running into some familiar faces-a nice feeling of being more local then a day ago- when i arrived- you get a lot done in a day!

After dinner went to visit Eric Parson-AKA Epic Designs AKA a great guy who himself done some amazing expeditions in some wild places- the last being a raft/ bike trip along the wild and glacier strewn coast of Alaska- incredible. Between these Eric keeps busy making fantastic bike gear- innovative and smart- and very popular with bike riders everywhere- [i have been the 'Australian' branch for a while]- and it was great to go see Eric in his new workshop- and collect some gear i ordered- which is already on my bike tonight - ready for the ride!

This morning went for a ride along Chester creek trail- heading out to Cooke inlet- pretty much frozen except a narrow channel with fast flowing tidal current. It's been relatively 'warm- just on -9 when we headed out- Tony, my host, [and driver, guide, beer buddy ] and generally a great guy! Nikki and Andy from the UK, and myself- enjoying our first fat chance fat bike experience. riding thru the forest along Chester creek we met quite a few people on skis- dogs, runners, and kids being towed on sleds- a lovely ride ending with a little outing onto the ice of the inlet- then back home for a quick change and headed out towards the mountains north east of Anchorage to drop Nikki and Andy off in a town near the race start ( they are doing the Su 50) and back to Anchortown to set up our own bike- i am heading out for a 5 day riding and camping ( no tents- it's a bivvy bag kinda camp) and with changing conditions, temp drop, and fresh snow expected tomorrow night- should be interesting....we are leaving early in the morning- so the next comm will be when i am back- about 5 days.

Thanks to everyone who's been sending hi via emails and comment on the blog- good to hear from you!

on the ice of Cooke's inlet

Into White

It's been 37 hours since I walked out of the front door in Melbourne- and I find myself in a bar in Anchorage- a lively place with great food, and beer, and lots of locals having a good time. My friend Tony collected me from the airport after a pretty smooth flight- 14 hours on the A 380 giant- a very smooth flight across the Pacific into LA- an airport that despite the horror stories of unfriendly immigration and customs officials proved anything but- took the whole of 5 minutes to get thru the lot, and I was out in the sunshine- walking across to terminal 3- faster in my walking pace then taking the shuttle service- then a quick check in at the Alaskan Airways counter, and a 2 hour flight to Seattle- clear skies and amazing views-about 10 minutes out of LA the landscape changed from brown / green to progressively more white- as we passed the Sierra mountains covered in snow- and headed over Mt Hood, Mt St Helen- with it's volcanic cone clearly visible and the destruction of it's explosion few years back still very evident- an into Pugent Sound- and Seattle- and mount Rainier glowing white in the evening light- huge, proud, and familiar- from a climb I did many years ago. The one hour stop over i spent mainly playing noughts and crosses with a 5 year old from Canada- who i met at the transit lounge- who's family breeds huskies for mushers- a chance meeting that turned out very enjoyable and fascinating- learning about their dogs running in the Yukon quest amongst other races. we boarded on time for the final leg to Anchorage- alas a hole was discovered in the cargo hold and we spent the next hour waiting.... and waiting... and then some more- but eventually took off for the final 3.5 hour leg to Anchorage- arriving by moonlight with huge areas of ice glistening in the waters of Cookes inlet- along which the city is built.

When i got out of the plane- the minus 18 temp was actually a refreshing feel- beautiful clean, cold air- after so many hours in the canned environment- and snow- everywhere.

Met Tony and we headed to REI- to collect some gear we ordered- and then to dinner...the bar.. where this episode starts.

After dinner we drove towards the GGBB- the Green Ghetto Bed And Breakfast- the unofficial name for Tony's place- under rennovation- a happy home for me while I stay in AK between trips and races. On the way home met my first Moose- ambling along the road- cars all around- totally cool and relaxed about it all.

Tommorow we get the bikes- and ride!

Quinuituq. Deep patience

"The long wait at a seal hole for prey to surface. Waiting for a lead to close. The Eskimo have a word for this kind of long waiting, preparing for a sudden event:quinuituq. Deep patience"
- Barry Lopez (Arctic Dreams)

The wait is over.

It's hard to imagine I am finally heading out there, almost even hard to recall more then 8 months of training, and planning, and imagining being there. 1000's of kilometres ridden, train rides to the bush for extended rides, crashing, grunting, motivating myself (mostly) in the dark and wet and cold of winter here, and the heat of summer, and 'just another ride before work' and convincing myself all this blood (sic- numerous crashes) sweat(sic) and tears(sic- ok, you know I'm a tough boy.. yeah right) are all for a good cause? ...even with the doubtful glances of some who know me quite well, giving me the impression that even with my existing reputations for thinking some silly ideas- this one is at #1 spot. Expeditions to nowhere... a speciality?

It's night-time in Alaska now- but here, Australia- the moon is getting read for bed and the sun is just getting motivated... it's a new day- departure day. While many will be heading out, to work, to daily routines- i will be stepping out of the house thinking- I will be late for dinner, very late.
Quinuituq. Deep patience.
Yeah!
See you on the 'other side' of this break...

Getting into Gear

A nice aspect of preparing for a 'little outing' such as this one is the enjoyment of the endless hours spent on the Net, in blogs and forums, websites, and browsing thru printed catalogues- salivating over new toys and more gear while pretending the bank account will remain 'healthy for the duration- HA!)- sometimes the 'research phase can become a journey of it's own- and sometimes even an excuse not to go out and train...(it's dark/ cold/ raining/ too hot/ too humid.. and i just need to email these guys over at... and... ya know)'

But there is an even nicer aspect- one that takes a little while to recognise- and that is the amount of people you ' meet' while searching for gear and information- and realising you just made contact with incredibly helpful and insightful people- some becoming friends quite fast too!

I have been very very lucky to come across a bunch of great people- whom i have never met (yet) in person- who were very generouse with help with the bike, to equipment, to advice and information, and places to stay. Tip of the old Akubra goes to many- but especially to: Bill and Kathy, Bill 'Kootch', Tony Allen, Nancy, Butch, Cassidy, and the sundance Kid, Eric Parsons, John at OMM, and- on home turf- Franco D and Chris Watson at Melba.
Thank you. I will see you soon. :~)

picture: Eric Parsons of Epic Designs Alaska 'delivering'....

Fire and Ice

Fire and Ice
It's hard to imagine the contrasts- While we were sweltering here in almost 47 degrees heat ( that's about 107F for those using the 'other scale') Anchorage was chilling out with a pleasant minus 20- making me realise what a rapid adjustment I'll have to make- puts a new meaning on the term 'snap frozen'?

After a horrible black weekend here of so much damage and sadness- and losses- it was hard to imagine being in a landscape of white- after all the blackness everywhere here- contrasts in so many ways.- in worlds of monochrome we travel.

To make matters abit more interesting- Alaska has been rehearsing for it's own fireworks display- it's hard to remember as you think Alaska that it has so many active volcanoes- and just south of Anchorage Mt Redoubt has been keeping everyone guessing for the past few weeks. Last time it erupted the ash in the air almost brought a Jumbo Jet down ( the engines seized- read more here:.... http://pubs.usgs.gov/fs/fs030-97/

So the question of getting there- even just really 'getting there'- on a normal scheduled flight...took on a new meaning... so far, The volcano has accommodated my travel plans- thank you! Redoubt
Data today:2009-02-10 07:38:42 -
this is AK time- here we are in already the future- Wed 11th of Feb
Redoubt: Redoubt Volcano continues to be in an elevated state of unrest. The seismic activity is dominantly volcanic tremor with occasional small earthquakes.The web camera is now dark for the night.The volcano has not erupted and AVO continues to watch the volcano 24/7.
http://www.avo.alaska.edu/activity/Redoubt.php

Image courtesy of AVO/USGS.

Da RULES

• All survival gear (clothing, sleeping bags, etc.) for the McGrath race must be carried from the start.
• You may take any route as long as you sign-in and sign-out of the required checkpoints.
• No support crews!
• No outside assistance to advance up or down the trail.(no snowmachine or airplane rides)
• Respect private property!
• Leave no trace. Do not litter the trail !!
• Smiles, Thank-you's and Tips are appreciated at all check points.
• Expendables only in drop bags!
• Do not bring bikes, sleds or skis inside checkpoints!
• Cyclists must start and finish with the same bike.

photo © Bill Merchant-Alaska Ultrasport